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Mount Rogers

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Monday, June 30, 2014

Twas the season for snow climbs and Steven and I were in the mood for taking advantage of good conditions for a good peak. We set our sights on Mount Rogers, one of the most prominent mountains in Rogers Pass (closely behind Mount Sir Donald itself!) which was known to have a good approach, a quick glacier, and then a 40ish degree slope to cap it off.

Our route started out at the Hermit trailhead on the side of the highway and we wandered up in the evening with the goal of getting to treeline, taking a nap to give the snow time to firm up and then carrying on to the glacier. There were tons of stars above overnight and the clear skies gave the snow a nice freeze on the final steep slope (and a not so nice freeze on the lower slopes). From the end of the Hermit Meadows trail (or where we thought the end was, lingering snow made it hard to tell where the trail actually went) we made a straight line for the steep rock/snow slope to gain the Rogers glacier and came across several sets of tracks from people either heading up Rogers or Tupper in the previous few days. On the glacier we saw no obvious signs of crevasses (but from other beta know that they are out there) and swiftly made our way to the snow slope. Switching out snowshoes for crampons allowed for quick travel up the slope (which would have been much quicker travel had my crampons not started to fall off due to the ever loosening toe bail which lead to some concerns). The slope was around 40 degrees for most of the ascent but did became steeper towards the top (particularly as we made a detour to a patch of rocks on the climbers right). After the steep slope all that stood between us and the summit was a short (exposed) gain of 50m or so of elevation. Views from the summit were excellent, especially looking back towards the Rockies! On the way back down we retraced our steps (through swiftly softening snow) and quickly made it back to the car to start the long drive home. All in all I highly recommend this ascent for good views, short approach, and nice terrain. Wait for a night with a good freeze to firm up the last slope!


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