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Mount Victoria North Peak [Attempt]

Round Trip Distance [km]: 

After a brief foray into Rogers Pass for our last trip Steven and I were anxious to get back on track heading up Rockies 11000ers and planned out an ambitious three day trip including Mount Victoria's North Peak and Mount Lefroy. North Vic was first up and proved to be decent conditions and a good ascent for Steven, regrettably I had crampon issues which prevented me from the summit (more on that below).

We began our trek heading up the heavily trod trail from Lake Louise to the Plane of the Six Glaciers Teahouse which was in really good shape allowing for a very short approach. A hundred meters or so past the Teahouse we came across the Swiss Guides trail up to the North Vic glacier which was in much better shape than we anticipated (this trail has to be maintained or something as there was even evidence of trees being cut down along its path). Following the upper trail quickly travelled from bush to scree, and then shortly after onto snow. There certainly are some big holes up on the North Vic glacier and we roped up soon after reaching snow. Travel from the edge of the glacier up to the 'shrund was quick and we had steps from a previous group to follow which gave us a slight measure of confidence that we were less likely going to plunge into any hidden crevasses. Heading up towards the 'shrund is when I started to have gear troubles. I had worn out enough of the toe welt on my mountaineering boots (apparently using them on scree for a few years has had some consequences) that no matter how tight my crampons would eventually pop off. Not wanting to test that out on 50 degree snow/ice I elected to stay behind while Steven soloed the rest of the route. It took about 3 hours for Steven to get up and down and during which I had some decent views of Mount Temple and the surrounding peaks.

Heading back down after Steven bagged the peak my mood was somewhat dampened but resolved to quickly drive back to Canmore and get some new crampons before getting the bus to O'Hara (thankfully we booked the late bus!). A couple hours later, armed with new crampons we were en route to the Abbot Pass Hut to head up Mount Lefroy the next morning.

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